H. Moser & Cie. revisits its roots with two steel 42 mm additions to the Heritage line: the Heritage Chronograph White Fumé and the Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé. Both lean on pocket-watch roundness, slim tapered lugs, and a notched crown, but they speak in different registers of the same language.
The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé channels mid-century instrumentality without the fuss. A white fumé dial with a sunburst finish carries the brand’s 1947 logo, while all indications are rendered in blue for crisp legibility. The layout is classical: small seconds at 3, a 45-minute counter at 9, and a tachymeter scale framing the scene. It is an honest, two-register chrono that prefers clarity to ceremony.
Inside is the HMC 220 automatic calibre paired with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module. Beating at 21,600 vph with an original Straumann hairspring and bi-directional pawl winding, it stores a minimum of 3 days of power. Finishing is restrained but considered, with Moser double stripes and an engraved rotor visible through the sapphire back. The case measures 13.8 mm tall and clicks home on a grey hand-stitched kudu strap with a steel pin buckle. Limited to 100 pieces.
The Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé tells the quieter story. Its rounded steel case, slim lugs, and notched crown nod to early wristwatch conversions, while the Espresso fumé dial adds warmth and depth. A white railway minute track, sword hands with Super-LumiNova, and oversized Globolight numerals keep things bold yet civilized. It looks classic at arm’s length and contemporary up close, which is the point.
Power comes from the HMC 200 automatic, also at 21,600 vph, with a flat-curve Straumann hairspring, engraved rotor, and the same three-day reserve. Height drops to 11.1 mm, helped by the movement’s 5.5 mm profile. Through the sapphire back, the architecture reads clean and purposeful. The watch is paired with a brown kudu strap with white stitching. Limited to 200 pieces.
These two references sketch a tidy dialectic: one emphasizes measured action, the other measured time. Both avoid nostalgia cosplay by relying on proportion, texture, and functional detail rather than theatrics. If heritage is a conversation, not a costume, Moser keeps it fluent.
Leave a Reply