Less than two years after its 2024 revival, Favre Leuba marks a poised debut at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026 with two collections that read as a mission statement: the Harpoon Revival and the 1737 Triple Calendar. Heritage is not paraded here, but edited with care.
The Harpoon Revival returns to a 1966 design with uncommon restraint. A 36.8 mm stainless steel case and a slim 10 mm profile keep the proportions civil, while a closed caseback engraved with the historic medallion keeps the mood period correct. The gray sunray-brushed dial holds the line on character: horizontal markers at 12, 6, and 9, a framed date, and the historic “Harpoon” signature. Rhodium-plated hands with Super-LumiNova tip the balance toward real-world legibility.
Inside, the FLD04 automatic caliber, based on the La Joux-Perret G100, delivers a 68-hour power reserve. It is a modern engine chosen for quiet dependability, which suits a design that prefers precision over noise.
The 1737 Triple Calendar sets a second pillar with a classical complication. Named for the brand’s founding year, it favors balance, clarity, and proportion. The dial layers finish thoughtfully: a sunray center, a brushed pointer date track, and a delicately snailed minutes scale. Applied 4N gold-finished markers mix Roman numerals and indexes with pleasing restraint, while twin apertures at 12 o’clock and a moon phase at 6 complete the reading.
Through a sapphire caseback, the FLD06 automatic caliber shows a 4N gold finish with Côtes de Genève, perlage, blued screws, and a skeletonized rotor. Power reserve is 56 hours. The decoration is measured, not ostentatious, and aligns with the watch’s studied layout.
Together, these releases sketch a coherent direction. The Harpoon Revival respects the line drawings of 1966 while bringing in contemporary mechanics. The 1737 Triple Calendar steps calmly into classical territory, prioritizing legibility and sound construction. No fireworks, just watchmaking that tries to speak clearly.
For a maison approaching three centuries, clarity might be the bolder choice. Favre Leuba seems to be choosing it.
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