Author: Constantin Reusberg

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton – clarity by subtraction

H. Moser & Cie. calls the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton an exercise in removing to reveal. For once, the phrase fits. In a 40 mm 5N red gold case, the fully skeletonised HMC 814 shows more air than metal, yet what remains is purposeful. Light streams through, and the one minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock becomes the anchor point rather than an interruption.

The geometry is disciplined. Anthracite bridges and main plate, dressed with drawn strokes, give a modern, almost architectural calm. Gold plated indices and leaf hands add a measured warmth, the kind that keeps a technical object from feeling clinical. Readability in skeleton watches often suffers. Here, the contrasts help. It is not a dial for the dark, but it is not a maze either.

The self winding HMC 814 is the quiet headline. It is skeletonised in three dimensions, its oscillating weight openworked to match, and its barrel hollowed to show the mainspring. Practicality sneaks in with that last touch. The tourbillon carries a double hairspring designed and produced by Precision Engineering AG. Twin matched springs work to correct the shifting center of gravity and reduce friction, a path toward better accuracy and isochronism rather than spectacle for its own sake.

Moser cites diamond bevelling and an anthracite finish on the plate and bridges. The language is spare, which suits the watch. There is symmetry, but not strict mirror play. The Endeavour case flanks keep their asymmetric profiles, a reminder that elegance can live with tension. Height is listed at 10.7 mm, which sounds honest for a tourbillon with automatic winding and a quoted minimum 72 hour power reserve.

I like the restraint. Many skeletons confuse openness with drama. This one feels edited. The movement counts 167 components and 28 jewels, beating at 21,600 vph, yet avoids the busywork aesthetic that skeletonisation sometimes invites. If you come for spectacle, the tourbillon will oblige. If you stay for construction, the double hairspring and the thoughtful voids make the better argument.

On the wrist, the dark brown alligator nubuck strap and red gold pin buckle continue the theme. Nothing shouts. In a world that loves to add, Moser chooses to subtract. Not to simplify, but to reveal. That is a lesson worth keeping.

January 28, 2026
HYT’s 2025 – bellows back, fluid time refined

HYT spent 2025 doing what it does best – making time move in a line of colored liquid and letting the mechanics speak for themselves. The year was anchored by the S1 collection, a measured return to the brand’s bellows and to a clearer view of the hydromechanical heart.

The S1 arrives in a more compact 45.3 mm titanium case and runs on caliber 501-CM with 352 components and a 72-hour power reserve. The architecture is skeletal, putting the fluidic display and its bellows back on stage. Three executions set the tone – S1 Titanium DLC Blue, S1 Beadblasted Titanium Red, and S1 Titanium DLC Green – each leaning into legibility and wearability rather than spectacle.

HYT also trimmed the sails on finishing with the T1 Guilloché, where hand-cut patterns do the talking. A linear motif on the flange, a circular radiating figure from the center, and a sunray guilloché for the power-reserve subdial give the dial real cadence, paired with a blue alligator strap. Traditional engines meet the brand’s fluid display without shouting.

Collaboration surfaced thoughtfully. In May, the S1 5N Gold Titanium Limited Edition with artist Fally Ipupa arrived in a run of 8 pieces, open-worked and signed on the caseback. Later, for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons’ 75th anniversary, HYT produced three one-of-a-kind S1 Bespoke pieces – Titanium Green, Titanium Blue, and Titanium Sand – marked by Eastern Arabic numerals and a 7S engraving.

At Dubai Watch Week, an S1 inspired by cigar culture brought a warmer palette – 5N gold with black DLC titanium, a brown and rhodium-coated brass dial, and red liquid coursing through the borosilicate capillary like a lit ember. A brown alligator strap ties the theme together. No smoke and mirrors, just a cohesive mood board rendered in metal and fluid.

The brand kept a steady travel rhythm, showing at Watches and Wonders, WatchTime New York, SIAR Summer, Miami Haute Time Watch Summit, Curated Rally, Shanghai Watch Festival, and Dubai Watch Week. The throughline is clear – keep the fluid system visible, refine the case, and let enthusiasts handle the watches. In short, 2025 was about tightening the message. The bellows are back, the dial work is calmer, and the red line keeps time with quiet conviction.

January 28, 2026
Venezianico closes 2025 at 15 million euros – growth, a first own movement, and a clearer identity

Venezianico reports revenues above 15 million euros for 2025, a 35% increase year on year. For a brand in its eighth year, founded by Alberto and Alessandro Morelli, the figure matters less as a headline than as fuel – it suggests a maturing operation with the means to build what it says it wants to build.

The company highlights an ever more engaged community and a product-first strategy – the watch as a statement of identity rather than a seasonal SKU. That identity is framed as contemporary Italian watchmaking rooted in Venetian tradition, looking forward without losing the thread. Less carnival, more craft.

The pivotal step in 2025 was the launch of its first own, Made in Italy movement. It is a meaningful threshold for any independent – not a finish line, but a declaration of intent. A few months later came Utopia II, positioned as the next iteration of that vision. The messaging is consistent: define the mechanics, then refine the design around them.

The year also brought several limited editions that explored materials, processes, and aesthetic languages while keeping house style intact. Awards and recognition in multiple countries, plus positive reception at major international fairs, round out the picture. Applause is welcome, but the real test is longevity – movements that can be maintained, designs that age well, and a supply chain that can take a punch.

Alberto Morelli frames the results as responsibility more than victory – curiosity, respect for craftsmanship, and daily improvement. It is the right register. Growth should not outpace the bench. If the brand continues to invest in what is inside the case as carefully as what is on the dial, Venice might offer more than scenery – it might offer a school.

For now, Venezianico ends 2025 with momentum and a clearer self-portrait: a high-end Made in Italy ambition anchored to local heritage and tested on a broader stage. The next chapter will show whether that first movement becomes a family – and whether the narrative stays as disciplined as the numbers.

January 26, 2026
Czapek’s Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads in Victory Green

Czapek adds a measured splash of color to its steel chronograph with the Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads in Victory Green, a limited edition of 18 pieces. The dial pairs a guilloché motif with an English green that feels confident rather than loud. It reads as sport with manners.

The 41.5 mm case is fashioned in 316L surgical steel, a pragmatic choice that suits a daily chronograph. Inside beats the SXH3, an integrated high-frequency automatic chronograph caliber. The integrated construction matters here – it tends to deliver crisper engagement and a tidier architecture than a modular stack, which is always welcome when form should follow function.

The strap options remain human-scaled: hand-sewn calfskin or Alcantara, each on a deploying buckle. The watch aims for what the brand calls versatile sportiness, or as CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel puts it, “from marathon to evening wear.” Whether your marathon is 42 kilometers or the school run, the point is the same – this is a timing tool that does not demand a costume change.

Price is CHF 32,000 before tax, with deliveries slated to begin in April 2026. It will be available through official Czapek retailers, the Geneva boutique, and the brand’s website.

What lingers is the intention. A steel case, a thoughtful green over a worked dial, and an integrated chronograph that keeps the mechanics honest. Nothing gratuitous, nothing shy. If a chronograph should reveal the mind of its maker, this one nods to restraint – and lets the details do the talking.

January 22, 2026
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre – first light for a mountain tool

Alpina, founded in 1883, steps into solar with the Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre. It is the brand’s first solar-powered collection, and it arrives with a calm promise rather than fireworks. Light in, time out. For an outdoor watch, that feels like common sense dressed in steel.

The headline is autonomy. Expose the dial to natural or artificial light and the battery charges. Once full, it takes around 10 consecutive months of darkness to run it down. Pull the crown and power reserve stretches to as much as four years. No drama, just less worry about a forgotten windowsill.

The watch stays within the Alpiner Extreme family in stance and purpose. Robust case, ready for the hills rather than the gala. Inside is the AL-140 movement, developed for Alpina by La Joux-Perret. The partnership signals a serious technical intent behind the quiet practicality.

On the dial, technology yields to texture. A fine triangular pattern nods to Alpina’s historic emblem. Legibility is handled by luminescent hands and indexes, with a date at 3 o’clock. Nothing showy, nothing missing. It reads like good toolkit design.

The collection is broad enough to feel considered. Five dial tones. Deep burgundy and mint green arrive on a steel bracelet. Three others come on textured rubber that echoes the dial motif. Light and navy blue dials pair with matching integrated straps. The white dial meets a black strap for contrast that is clean and direct.

There is a pleasing restraint to the whole proposition. A purpose-built case, a movement made for the task, and energy taken from the one resource every hiker carries by default. It is not about complication for its own sake. It is about a watch that works as long as the day does. In my book, that is real luxury.

January 22, 2026
Frederique Constant unveils a black onyx twist to the Classics Manchette

Frederique Constant expands its cuff-style Classics Manchette with a fifth edition that trades numerals for nuance. The recipe is clear: an ultra-slim yellow-gold PVD case, a sculptural Clous de Paris bracelet in alternating brushed and polished textures, and a dial cut from genuine black onyx beneath an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

The choice of onyx sets the tone. Deep and uniform at first glance, it carries natural variation that makes each dial its own quiet statement. Yellow-gold hands provide the necessary contrast without disturbing the calm. It is dressy, but not brittle. Think evening jacket with pockets that actually work.

Power comes from the FC-200 caliber, a quartz movement with a stated five-year battery life. No ceremony at the crown, no weekly ritual. In a design-led piece like this, the practicality reads as honest rather than evasive. The point is the cuff and its light play, not a glossary of gear trains.

The bracelet does most of the talking. Clous de Paris can feel decorative when overused; here it becomes architecture, catching light along its facets and giving the rectangular silhouette a measured rhythm. The case and bracelet finish meet cleanly, which is where a piece like this either succeeds or squeaks.

As a collection, Manchette has been building toward this darker note. After four earlier variations this year, the new black onyx model brings welcome restraint to the glam-rock brief. It is confident without shouting, and better for it. If your wrist enjoys geometry with a touch of midnight, this reads as the strongest expression so far.

January 22, 2026
FHH Returns to INHORGENTA 2026: A Watchmaking Wonderland Awaits

The Fondation Haute Horlogerie is bringing quite the horological carnival to Munich this year! Yes, my fellow watch enthusiasts, FHH is returning to INHORGENTA 2026 with a spectacle that promises to be a feast for both the brain and the senses.

Think of it as Disneyland for watch lovers – only with more gears and fewer talking animals. The cultural space, also known as FHH Cultural Space (Hall A1.333 if you are mapping your treasure hunt), will host the renowned Watch Makers exhibition. Here, you get to witness the craftsmanship, heritage, and the future of horology all under one roof.

Brands like Piaget, BOVET, and Oris will be flaunting their savoir-faire at the exhibition. Expect to see live demonstrations and brand-led activities that’ll make you fall head over heels for intricate finishes and artisanal techniques.

Ever wondered what it’s like to put together a watch movement with your own hands? The free workshops will give you a crack at mechanical watchmaking, under the guidance of experts, of course (we don’t want any unfinished business there).

For those who enjoy a good chinwag, the curated Watch Talks will gather industry experts to share insights, discuss exquisite craftsmanship, and maybe toss around a few predictions about where the watchmaking industry is headed. Intrigued? Mark your calendars – the adventure takes place from February 20 to 23, 2026, at Messe München.

January 22, 2026
MB&F’s LM Sequential Flyback EVO: A Chronograph with a Twist

When MB&F revealed the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO in 2022, it was like they rolled out the red carpet for chronographs, and watch lovers couldn’t get enough. This wasn’t just another ticking gizmo; it offered timing modes that could track everything from simultaneous races to your spaghetti cooking time. Oh, and did we mention it snagged the prestigious GPHG ‘Aiguille d’Or’ award? Talk about a showstopper!

Fast forward to 2026, and MB&F has released a new kid on the block – the LM Sequential Flyback EVO. It comes with a sleek grade 5 titanium case, an aquamarine dial that’s easy on the eyes, and – drumroll, please – an added flyback function. This twist means you can reset and restart your timer faster than your morning alarm snooze ritual.

Behind all this innovation is a mastermind named Stephen McDonnell. He’s the watchmaking wizard who figured out how to fit two independent chronograph systems into one timepiece, all while eliminating those pesky power losses traditional chronographs suffer from. Think of it as the hybrid car of chronographs – efficient and oh-so-smooth.

The real magic happens courtesy of the ‘Twinverter’ – a fifth pusher that’s basically the remote control for your twin chronographs. Want to start both timers at once? Done. Need to pause one while the other runs? Easy peasy. It’s like having the Swiss army knife of chronographs on your wrist.

Whether you’re timing laps like a racecar driver or making sure your cake doesn’t turn into a charcoal briquette, this piece has a function for you. Just remember – with great power (and an 80-meter water resistance and FlexRing shock absorber to boot) comes great responsibility. Or at least the need to explain to folks why your watch does things theirs can only dream of.

January 20, 2026
Buben&Zorweg Vision Card Collector – horology’s eye on a baseball reliquary

In a field that usually prizes escapements over outfields, the Buben&Zorweg Vision Card Collector caught my eye for familiar reasons – proportion, intention, and a craftsman’s respect for what is being protected. Created for a baseball devotee, it unites security, presentation, and storytelling in one object that feels considered rather than loud.

The exterior is wrapped in deep green velour, a calm skin that whispers rather than shouts. Open it and the mood shifts – a customizable lighting concept allows hues to suit memory or moment. Deep red, vibrant green, serene blue – light used not as decoration, but as punctuation.

Ten iconic baseball cards and one historic magazine take center stage, precisely framed between light and shadow. The drawers below offer room for more, an honest nod to the way collections grow – measured, but never finished. It is a simple idea done carefully: present what matters, store what waits its turn.

At its core sits an integrated high-security safe, the functional heart. A refined lever handle with a mother of pearl inlay provides the tactile invitation, while a BESPOKE insert with dedicated card holders gives the order a collection deserves. The watchmaker in me appreciates the hierarchy: case, dial, movement – here translated as shell, stage, safe.

This is not a gadget in search of a purpose. It is a quiet tribute to passion, precision, and play – memory, mastery, and modern design arranged with restraint. If horology teaches anything, it is that care is a form of timekeeping. The Vision Card Collector keeps time for a different game, but the discipline feels pleasingly familiar.

January 20, 2026
Alpina x TRTS Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic – compact diver with clarity

Alpina teams with The Real Time Show for a limited edition Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic that trims the case to 39 mm and focuses on what matters underwater and on dry land alike. The brief reads clearly enough: function first, with a few well judged flourishes.

Legibility takes point. A dark grey dial is cut sandwich style, with a polar white Luminova under layer glowing through the apertures. The bold orange seconds hand offers immediate contrast. There is no rehaut, which keeps the display tight and close to the crystal. Alpina’s own luminescence and the pared back layout aim for quick reads in any light.

The hardware is suitably straightforward. Inside is the automatic AL-520 with a 38-hour power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 300 meters. The steel case mixes brushed and polished surfaces, capped by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a matte black ceramic diving bezel. A black rubber strap completes the tool-facing kit.

Proportions are thoughtful: 39 mm in diameter and 12.65 mm thick, with a knurled black crown that adds a touch of purpose. The silhouette feels streamlined, the stance a shade military without chest beating. Comfort should follow from the compact footprint and compliant strap.

Details aside, the intent is the message. This collaboration does not shout. It tidies the Seastrong’s codes, sharpens legibility, and keeps the specification honest. If you prefer your diver to behave like a diver and still carry a little character, this one makes its case quietly and well.

January 20, 2026