NOMOS Glashütte revisits its signature Tangente Update with a trimmer 38.5 millimeters and, for the first time, an 18 kt gold case. Same clean geometry, now with a little evening-wear gravitas.
The hallmark remains the patented ring date circling the dial. Two red markers frame the current day while the full month sits legibly at the edge. Introduced in 2018 and honored at the GPHG, the display is clever without shouting “complication”.
Inside is the in-house DUW 6101. The date mechanism is set around the perimeter to keep height down, and has been adapted for the smaller case. Winding is bidirectional, the date is quick-change, and the caliber is adjusted in six positions. Through sapphire, you see the NOMOS swing system with its blue balance spring — a rare in-house feat in this price conversation.
The gold variant adds warmth to Tangente’s restrained Bauhaus lines, while stainless steel keeps the concept everyday-ready. There are two gold versions, including the tone-on-tone “doré” with gold hands and a brown Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap.
Proportions are careful. Even at 38.5 millimeters, the case stays svelte at 7.4 millimeters in height, lugs straight and poised. It reads as a dress watch that does not need to whisper to be heard.
NOMOS frames the move with typical precision. As a Glashütte manufacture with protected designation of origin, the brand machines its calibers in-house and finishes them to local standard. The result is mechanical honesty carried with quiet confidence.
CEO Uwe Ahrendt puts it plainly: “With the new 38.5-millimeter size, we are making our innovative ring date accessible to more people. By introducing Tangente Update in gold, we are also responding to a frequently heard request for modern dress watches, crafted from precious metal.” Even your tailor would approve.
Leave a Reply